The GutterBrush Blog

As hurricanes become a reality for more and more people (the east coast was just hit hard, including your pals over at GutterBrush), it’s always good to know exactly what essentials you need in case of emergency. Luckily, you already have many of these things in your house or apartment right now! Here goes:

1. Clothes

Remember that bag of clothes you’ve been meaning to donate to Goodwill? Pull them out and have them ready in case you need a fresh shirt or an old pair of pants to wade through possible flood waters. Store up old sheets and blankets to keep warm or to cover broken windows.

2. Water Bottles

Before the recycling truck comes this week, dig out those leftover water bottles, give them a good wash and fill them up with tap water. Store in the fridge until after the storm. Having fresh water on hand for drinking and bathing will be crucial if the storm knocks out your water.

3. Canned Food

It goes without saying that hoarding those non-perishable soups, green beans and baby peas is a great idea for during and after a storm. Plus, if you don’t use them after the storm, you can always donate them to a shelter (or just keep them stored in case of a future emergency).

4. Batteries

You’ll need extra batteries for a radio, flashlight or any other emergency device. If you’re running low on batteries, borrow a couple from non-essential devices such as remote controls or alarm clocks.

Bonus: If you’re planning a shopping trip before the storm, invest in a solar-powered cell phone charger. It could be a life-saver if you’re without power post-Irene.

5. Tools

In times of high stress, we tend to forget the essential tools we need. Set aside a wrench to turn off your water heater and gas. Bring out the can opener to use if you have to break into those tin-wrapped foods, and have a lighter on hand for candles. Keep in mind common problems that can arise during and after a storm and prepare accordingly (think: jammed doors, broken glass, heavy debris).

6. Books

No electricity, no television, no problem! Pack some reading material in a dry place to fight the inevitable no-power boredom. This will comes in handy especially for kids, whose favorite book may calm their fears during a rumbling storm.

7. Tents and Camping Supplies

Now that three-person tent and mummy sleeping bag can be used more than one fleeting weekend of the year. Get the rest of the family on board by promising some scary stories over warm can of pinto beans!

If you don’t live in an area affected by the hurricane this week, you can still make a difference by donating to a charity program such as the Red Cross.

It’s blazing hot outside so GutterBrush wants to help. Simply share your favorite cold weather photo on the GutterBrush Facebook page and be entered to win 1 of 3 $25 Restaurant.com Gift Cards! That’s enough for a meal in a nice air-conditioned restaurant…courtesy of GutterBrush! Winners will be randomly chosen (there’s no first or second place, etc.) and notified via Facebook.

How To Enter

• Visit the GutterBrush Facebook page. Be sure to ‘like’ the page if you haven’t already.
• Post your favorite cold weather photo. Whether it’s a photo taken by you or someone else…it only matters that you have the rights to post it. No law-breakers, please.
• Check out everyone else’s photos to help cool you down! If your photo is chosen, we’ll get in touch with you via Facebook to arrange how to send you your gift certificate. Simple as that!

It’s nearly July 4th and that means millions of us will be firing up our grills to celebrate with friends and family. However, some of us may have not turned on that grill in the past year or so. Never fear, GutterBrush to the rescue! We have a step-by-step guide to cleaning and getting your grill ready to handle all that you throw at / on it.

1. Remove cooking grates and set them in warm soapy water to soak.
2. Fill a small bucket or pan with warm soapy water.
3. If it’s a charcoal grill then remove the coal grate and brush out the insides.
4. If it’s a gas grill, remove briquettes, lava rocks or metal flame shield to expose burner.
5. Clean out ash and residue from around burner, careful to make sure the burner is in place when you are done.
6. Use a stiff wire brush and a little soapy water to gently scrub the inside surfaces of the grill.
7. Remove any particles from grill and reassemble.
8. If gas, brush off briquettes or lava rocks or wash metal flame shield in warm soapy water.
9. Remove cooking grates from water and brush clean with the wire brush.
10. Coat inside surfaces and cooking grates with cooking oil or spray.
11. Put grates back on grill
12. Allow the whole grill to air dry.
13. Allow an extra five minutes of heating time the next time you grill to make sure any cleaning residue has burner off.

Tips:

• Keeping grill surfaces lightly coated with cooking oil or spray will make clean up much easier.
• If the gas jets are clogged, consider replacing the burner or carefully clean them with a soft wire brush.
• Regular cleaning makes the job much easier.

Source: About.com

It’s summertime and that means more time outdoors. My wife recently developed a pretty painful and itchy case of poison ivy over the last few days and we’ve been trying to figure out the best way to treat it. We’ve come across some pretty helpful tips and wanted to share.

STEP 1

Stay outside. If you know you’ve been exposed, avoid going indoors so you can prevent the spreading of urushiol

STEP 2

Clean your skin immediately. If you do this within 10 minutes, you may be able to get the urushiol off before it penetrates your skin. Clean the skin with rubbing alcohol first, then rinse thoroughly with cold water.

• Don’t scrub or use hot water on your skin. This can draw the urushiol deeper into your pores.
• Don’t use soap until after you’ve rinsed off your skin with just water. Soap can pick up the urushiol and move it around to other parts of your body.
• Don’t go anywhere near urushiol-containing plants that day; the alcohol will make your skin extra vulnerable to it.
• Don’t forget to clean under your fingernails; you may have scratched off some urushiol and could redeposit it on other objects or areas of your skin by accident.
• Since urushiol is an oily resin, it binds to proteins in the skin and, after this process is complete, is nearly impossible to remove.

STEP 3

Recognize the symptoms. If you didn’t get the urushiol off in time, an allergic reaction may follow within 48 hours. First, your skin gets red and itchy. Then a rash follows, usually in a pattern of streaks of patches. Eventually the rash turns into red bumps or large oozing blisters. The rash will appear wherever you came in contact with urushiol, although it may take longer for the rash to appear on parts of your body where your skin is thicker. It doesn’t spread, however, because there’s no urushiol in the blisters. Once the urushiol is gone, the rash will go away.

STEP 4

Wash clothes and anything else that may have come in contact with a poisonous plant (gardening tools, pets, sports equipment, sheets). Don’t underestimate the power of urushiol; it can remain active for over a year.

STEP 6

STEP 7

STEP 8

• Take antihistamines. They can be taken orally or applied topically, or both. Unfortunately, these types of products only treat the itching symptoms but do not help the rash heal more quickly . Antihistamines, generally offer only mild relief from the symptoms of poison ivy, but if taken before bedtime their combination of anti-allergy and drowsiness-inducing effects can help you get some rest.
• Try hydrocortisone cream. However, some people find that hydrocortisone cream makes the symptoms worse in the long run. While the ingredients work for several hours, these creams tend to moisturize the skin at a time when drying provides longer-lasting relief.
• Apply calamine lotion. As the Coasters said in their immortal song Poison Ivy, “You’re gonna need an ocean / of calamine lotion.” Calamine lotion can ease the itching and soothe blistered skin. Apply regularly and liberally.

Did you know that one of the most dangerous Do-It-Yourself projects is climbing a ladder? Good thing GutterBrush helps you stay OFF that ladder when it comes to cleaning out your gutters. This year 43 million homeowners will take on 57 million home improvement projects. Of those intrepid folks, one in five will be injured, according to the Home Safety Council. Here are five of the most common do-it-yourself mishaps—and how to avoid them.

Climbing a ladder

Falls from ladders and stools sent over 246,733 Americans to hospital emergency rooms in 2009 (the last year for which full statistics are available) according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Experts from the CPSC, HSC and Consumer Reports recommend the following:

• Use the right ladder for the job. Always select a height that doesn’t require you to reach up or out in a way that destabilizes the ladder; keep your belt buckle centered between the rails.
• Set up your ladder on a firm, level surface. With an extension ladder, the base should be one foot away from the wall for every four feet the ladder reaches up.
• Use your stepladder only in the open, A-shaped position and lock the spreaders.
• Don’t step above the labeled maximum height. Beyond that point, the odds of an accident increase significantly.

Mowing the lawn

Lawn mower-related injuries treated in hospital emergency rooms totaled 86,000 in 2009. The most common injuries were caused by debris, such as rocks and branches, being thrown by the mower’s spinning blades. Here’s what to do:

• Send the kids into the house or well away from the area you are mowing.
• Check the lawn for debris (twigs, rocks and other objects).
• Wear sturdy shoes with sure-grip soles, never sneakers, sandals or bare feet.
• Never refuel the mower when it is running or while the engine is hot.

Using power tools

Home power tools resulted in 83,204 emergency room admissions in 2009. The most common injuries involve cuts, especially to the fingers and hands. The Power Tool Institute recommends.

• Don’t wear loose clothing or jewelry that could become entangled in moving parts.
• Unplug the power cord before you change a part or do any trouble-shooting on a tool that is jammed or won’t start.
• Wear safety glasses with side shields.

Working with paints and other chemicals

Accidents involving paints, solvents, lubricants and cleaning agents caused 53,907 emergency room admissions in 2009. Injuries often include chemical burns and breathing problems. Here’s how to avoid mishaps:

• Store and use pool chemicals according to the manufacturer’s directions.
• Gasoline is dangerous inside a home or garage—vapors can explode with just a tiny spark.
• Keep chemicals and cleansers in their original containers and don’t mix them.
• Wear gloves, goggles and masks if the product’s label says to do so.

Using a chain saw

Chain saw accidents sent 26,593 to the emergency room in 2009. Kickback—where the tip of the saw snaps up and back toward the user—is involved in one in four injuries. Cuts to hands, fingers, legs and feet are typical and usually require multiple stitches. Here’s how to stay safe.

• Wear eye and ear protection, gloves, tight-fitting clothing, cut-resistant leg chaps, boots, and a hard hat with a protective face screen.
• Grip the saw with both hands and keep both feet firmly on the ground.
• Saw only tree limbs you can reach from the ground while holding the saw below your shoulders.
• Avoid sawing with the tip of the chain and bar, where kickback typically occurs.

There’s a little-known feature of GutterBrush that might just save your roof from being damaged during next Winter. What is it, you ask?

GutterBrush has actually been reported as being able to absorb the heat of the sun and actually help melt ice dams before they turn into dangerous problems. So what is an ice dam?

Ice dams are typically the result of improper insulation resulting in a “warm roof.” Snow melts on the roof and water trickles down near the rain gutter/eave area where it freezes again and builds up as a block of ice.

GutterBrush Gutter Guard will have no effect on this process, but when the sun comes out, the black GutterBrush Gutter Guard bristles absorb heat and have been reported to promote quicker melting of any ice build up.

GutterBrush can also be used to protect your rain gutters safely with gutter and roof heating cables.

Plus by using Gutterbrush your gutters wont get clogged with debris that causes unprotected gutters to pool with rain water and freeze.

Storms are a natural part of summer. After a storm has passed and it is safe to go outside, take stock of your home and repair any minor damage caused by the storm. Repairing minor problems quickly can help ensure they don’t evolve into major headaches.

The home improvement and maintenance experts at Lowe’s offer some guidelines for assessing and dealing with storm damage:

Checking the roof

Your roof and gutters will often take the brunt of a storm’s power. After a storm, check out roof shingles by walking slowly around your home and inspecting from the ground. Use a good pair of binoculars to look for lifting or missing shingles around the edges, valleys, plumbing and furnace vent pipes and the chimney.

You can also inspect your roof from inside the attic. Discoloration of the decking or plywood surface of the roof could signal problems. And if you can see light coming in around plumbing vents or the chimney, it means the flashing needs to be repaired or replaced.

Roof repairs can be difficult and dangerous for homeowners, even if you’re an adept do-it-yourselfer. So be careful when climbing on your roof to inspect damage, especially after a storm when damage is unknown. Ask for professional help at your local home improvement store if you have any doubt about your abilities. You can also visit www.Lowes.com/roofing for more information about patching or replacing your roof.

Maintaining your gutters

Clogged gutters and downspouts can keep water from being carried away from your roof. Follow this gutter health checklist for obvious signs of failing gutters:

• Gutter hanging off the roof
• Downspout disconnected from the gutter or house
• Missing gutters
• Water in the basement or elsewhere inside the house
• Leaking or dripping gutter seams
• Overflowing gutters

Gutter damage usually takes one of three forms – holes, cracks or sags. You can easily repair minor sags or pin-sized holes yourself. If careful inspection reveals a pinhole, use an abrasive pad to clean the area. Then, cut a piece of material – the same kind as the gutters – that is 1 inch larger than the hole on all sides. Using a stiff brush, spread a bit of gutter repair compound on the area around the hole and place your patch over the top. Cover the patch with another layer of compound to ensure a good seal.

To repair minor sags, simply add a new hanging bracket to the sagging area or replace an existing one if it’s old or damaged. Screw in the bracket until the gutter is back in proper alignment. Be sure to use hanging brackets that are designed for your type of gutter system.

Cracks or more serious gutter damage may require professional help.

Read more of this terrific article over at the Bonners Ferry Herald.

Using good painting techniques is key to achieving professional-looking results. Another tip is to use enough paint. Get into the habit of going to the paint can often. Let the paint do the work, and you’ll save time and get the finish you want.

Using a Brush

1. Hold a brush near the base of the handle.
2. Dip half the bristles into the paint and tap on the lip of the can. Don’t wipe it on the side.
3. Paint with enough pressure to bend the bristles slightly — don’t bear hard on the brush.

Using a Roller

1. Roll the roller slowly into the paint in the tray. Then, roll it back and forth until roller cover is evenly coated with paint.
2. Roll onto the tray’s ridges to remove excess paint.
3. For smooth surfaces: Cover about a two-foot-square using the N pattern shown. Cross roll to spread the paint. Finish, with light roller strokes in one direction, at a right angle to the cross roll.

Painting Double-Hung Windows

1. For double-hung windows move each sash to the center of its track and paint the inside sash, starting with the crossbars. Then, paint the frame. Don’t paint the top edge of the inside sash; you’ll use it to move the sash. Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, starting with the crossbar, then the frame.
2. Close the sashes to within several inches of the closed position. Paint the rest of the outer sash and the top edge of the inner sash. Paint the window casing, then the sill.
3. Paint the check rails. Move both sashes down as far as they will go, then paint the upper rails. Once the paint is thoroughly dry, move both sashes up and paint the lower rails of the window.

Casement or Awning Windows

1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
2. Finish with the crossbars, frame, casings and the sills.

Paneled Doors

1. First remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, wipe it up immediately with a soft cloth.
2. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush.
3. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lock-side edge.

Flush Doors

1. Paint the edges first.
2. Then fill in the center area, working from top to bottom.
3. Finish with the frame and jamb.

You may have heard people complaining about how much electric energy are their air conditioners consuming. Ever wondered why does this happen? In most of the cases, it is because the air conditioner isn’t the proper one for that room, and therefore, it is either overloaded.

So, how to choose the best air conditioner?

As the users of air conditioning systems may be aware, the capacity of these machines is measured in BTUs, or more likely, British Thermal Units and, in order to choose the most suitable one for a room/hall, people should respect a few principles.

First of all, they should know exactly the sizes of the hall/room, and that’s because there are multiple air conditioners. Some of them have a small capacity – for small rooms, most likely, a capacity that can go up to just 3500-5000 BTU – while some of them have a big capacity. Though, the last ones are mostly used in industrial purposes and are only for hypermarkets, deposits and halls.

As well, people should also know how many people will be living or passing by through that room, how many of the walls have windows and what is the usual temperature in a sunny day, when the room/hall is at its peek of insulation. This is because, usually, if the room meet different characteristics than the regular ones, the air conditioners should have a little higher capacity.

Therefore, before buying an air conditioner it is important to find out what is the minimum BTU that we are in need of. In normal conditions, for a room, it should be enough somewhere near 5000 BTU. But even more important, is the EER coefficient.

What’s EER? It’s the abbreviation for Energy Efficiency Ratio and basically, it measures the efficiency of the tower. For the usual household air conditioners, the perfect EER should be near 11. If it’s lower, then these machines shouldn’t be bought even if they may be cheaper. Though, they will require a lot of electric energy for functioning and the results won’t be astonishing.

Of course, the larger air conditioners should have an EER of 13, but in reality, this coefficient is way beyond this number. Though, an 13 EER is commonly accepted to be suitable for most of the large spaces. Though, for one room, or maybe too, a 11 EER with 5000 BTU would be more than enough.

Source

Squirrels are wily little rodents noted for being able to outsmart just about anyone who tries to deny them access to bird feeders. Squirrels can walk on wire, jump almost 4 feet straight up, leap 10 feet across, and climb almost anything.

1. Contact a bird-feeding specialty store either in person, by phone or online, and ask about “squirrel-proof” bird feeders.
2. Purchase a recommended feeder.
3. Buy or make a squirrel baffle if you intend to mount the feeder on a post. A baffle is designed to foil squirrels that can jump or climb onto the feeder from the ground.
4. Mount feeder on post and add baffle according to instructions. Or,
5. Mount your feeder in the middle of a long wire that extends from your house to a tree in your yard.
6. String empty film canisters, empty plastic soda bottles, sections of hose, old vinyl records, spools of thread, or PVC pipe all along the wire. Use any objects that will cause squirrels to slip off the wire if they walk on it.
7. Try providing squirrels with their own feeding station if all else fails, and give them whole dried corn and seeds that they like.

Tips & Warnings

• One of the most successful squirrel baffles, the Pole Mount Cylindrical Squirrel Baffle, is made by ERVA.
• Putting grease or oil on poles sometimes prevents squirrels from climbing.
• Try enclosing the entire feeder in a wire cage that denies access to squirrels, but allows birds in.
• If you are bitten by a squirrel, seek medical attention immediately.